The dreaded swatch. We all hate to do them, especially for accessories. We want to get started with the project!

However, they are really helpful for a successful end product, especially if you are substituting a different yarn than the project calls for. The swatch is a test drive of the yarn you are using. You will determine if it’s suitable or if you like working with it!

They are absolutely necessary for garment projects because a slight difference in stitch change can make a sweater a few inches smaller or larger than you wanted. You might also be a little smaller or larger if it's an accessory, or you could run out of yarn.

Successful Swatch Steps

Step One - Work up the swatch

Use the recommended hook and yarn or a suitable yarn substitute. If you know you crochet tight or loose, adjust your hook now. If you crochet tight, go up a hook size; if you crochet loose, go down a hook size.

The 4”x4” is what you want to measure, not the size of your swatch. The swatch should be larger than the 4”x4”(10cmx10cm), at minimum 6”x6” (15 cm x 15 cm) approximately. Ideally, the designer includes some directions for making the swatch. I like to for my patterns. You might have to do some math to determine your foundation chain or do a simple trick I like to use: chain 6” (15 cm) plus a few extra stitches for a turning chain if needed, then a few extra chains. Then, follow the pattern recommended. Leave any chains not needed unworked.

I don’t weave the ends on my swatch, just in case I need to frog it and use the yarn later for the project.

Step Two - Wet Block Your Swatch

Then, you want to wet block your swatch or follow the designer's instructions. I have two patterns that you can measure your gauge unblocked. Even for those patterns, you might want to wet block them to determine if you like the finished fabric. I’m considering reworking those to include wet blocking the swatch.

Wet blocking includes soaking the swatch in cool water using a no-rinse wool wash or mild dish detergent for about 20 minutes. I use the no-rinse wool wash to block all fiber because I don’t have to rinse it! If you use a mild dish detergent, give the swatch a rinse. Then, gently squeeze out water without twisting the swatch.

Lay the swatch on a towel, roll it up, and step on it. The goal is to get it as dry as possible. Then, lay it flat to dry. Follow any particular instructions the designer might have. If they don’t have any, laying it flat and gently making it “square” is sufficient. When the swatch is completely dry, it’s ready to be measured.

Step 3- Measure the Swatch

You want to measure inside the square. This will give you a more accurate gauge. The swatch's top, bottom, and edges fall outside the gauge.

The gauge for this swatch after wet blocking is:

21 sts and 17 rows in 4”x4” (10cmx 10cm)

Step 4- Analyze Your Swatch

Compare your gauge to the pattern’s gauge.

If you have more stitches or rows in 4”(10cm) in your swatch, then go up a hook size. If you have fewer stitches in 4”(10cm) in your swatch, the pattern calls for going down a hook size.

Sometimes, matching the row gauge is difficult. Generally, I prioritize meeting stitches per inch and then adjust the number of rows I work when making the item.

What if you get the gauge and still don’t like the fabric? You might want to compare the yarn you plan to use for the project to what the designer used. What fiber content of the yarn did the designer use? I like to design with animal fibers. Acrylic and plant fibers behave like animal fibers. You can sub them for a pattern that calls for animal fiber. You may want to make some adjustments to get a fabric you like, such as adjusting the gauge up or down.